Ice Dye Tricks: Dip dyeing solid areas

You probably noticed in a few of the galleries earlier, there are a few photos of shirts we dyed that have some ice dyed areas, and some (mostly) solid areas! You can use the same dyes to make a dye bath (in a bucket, or in a bottle that you'll squeeze out) and dip dye portions of your project. I prefer to dip dye first, ice dye second-- remember that you'll still need 24 hours curing time between each technique.


For Neal's shirt here, we tied a bullseye in the center, then dipped ONLY the outsides of the bullseye in a brown dye bath, squeezed out the excess dye, and let it sit overnight to cure. Then, without washing, we ice dyed the bullseye. Ta-da!


Same idea with A's shirt, here: this is a ladder fold with a line of symmetry, and the ladder fold took up the entire top of the shirt. Before ice dyeing, we dipped the lower part of the shirt (the part that wasn't involved in the fold) in Dharma's Indigo Blue, and followed the same process as above.


This tank's dip dyed color was pale, so you can see the ice dyed colors creeping into the "solid" body of the shirt. I love it when this accident happens!



You can ice dye multiple areas of a garment, and dip dye the rest:

Here's a peek at our set-up for this. You can do it lots of different ways! Don't be nervous-- you can't hurt your projects, only alter your outcomes. In these pics, the clips were used to keep the shirts from falling down into the dye bath! The brown shirts were tied into mandalas, and the purple shirts were tied into geodes.

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